Eco Sustainable Village
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Eco Sustainable Village |
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HYDROPHONICS/ AEROPHONICS There are 6 basic types of hydroponic systems; Wick, Water Culture, Ebb and Flow (Flood & Drain), Drip (recovery or non-recovery), N.F.T. (Nutrient Film Technique) and Aeroponic. There are hundreds of variations on these basic types of systems, but all hydroponic methods are a variation (or combination) of these six.
WICK SYSTEM The Wick system is by far the simplest type of hydroponic system. This is a passive system, which means there are no moving parts. The nutrient solution is drawn into the growing medium from the reservoir with a wick. This system can use a variety of growing medium. Perlite, Vermiculite, Pro-Mix and Coconut Fiber are among the most popular. The biggest draw back of this system is that plants that are large or use large amounts of water may use up the nutrient solution faster than the wick(s) can supply it.
WATER CULTURE The water culture system is the simplest of all active hydroponic systems. The platform that holds the plants is usually made of Styrofoam and floats directly on the nutrient solution. An air pump supplies air to the air stone that bubbles the nutrient solution and supplies oxygen to the roots of the plants. Water culture is the system of choice for growing leaf lettuce, which are fast growing water loving plants, making them an ideal choice for this type of hydroponic system. Very few plants other than lettuce will do well in this type of system. This type of hydroponic system is great for the classroom and is popular with teachers. A very inexpensive system can be made out of an old aquarium or other water tight container. We have free plans and instructions for a simply water culture system The biggest draw back of this kind of system is that it doesn’t work well with large plants or with long-term plants.
EBB AND FLOW The Ebb and Flow system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient solution and then draining the solution back into the reservoir. This action is normally done with a submerged pump that is connected to a timer. When the timer turns the pump on nutrient solution is pumped into the grow tray. When the timer shuts the pump off the nutrient solution flows back into the reservoir. The Timer is set to come on several times a day, depending on the size and type of plants, temperature and humidity and the type of growing medium used. The Ebb and Flow is a versatile system that can be used with a variety of growing mediums. The entire grow tray can be filled with Grow Rocks, gravel or granular Rockwool. Many people like to use individual pots filled with growing medium, this makes it easier to move plants around or even move them in or out of the system. The main disadvantage of this type of system is that with some types of growing medium (Gravel, Growrocks, Perlite), there is a vulnerability to power outages as well as pump and timer failures. The roots can dry out quickly when the watering cycles are interrupted. This problem can be relieved somewhat by using growing media that retains more water (Rockwool, Vermiculite, coconut fiber or a good soiless mix like Pro-mix or Faffard’s).
Drip systems are probably the most widely used type of hydroponic system in the world. Operation is simple, a timer controls a submersed pump. The timer turns the pump on and nutrient solution is dripped onto the base of each plant by a small drip line. In a Recovery Drip System the excess nutrient solution that runs off is collected back in the reservoir for re-use. The Non-Recovery System does not collect the run off. A recovery system uses nutrient solution a bit more efficiently, as excess solution is reused, this also allows for the use of a more inexpensive timer because a recovery system doesn’t require precise control of the watering cycles. The non-recovery system needs to have a more precise timer so that watering cycles can be adjusted to insure that the plants get enough nutrient solution and the runoff is kept to a minimum. The non-recovery system requires less maintenance due to the fact that the excess nutrient solution isn’t recycled back into the reservoir, so the nutrient strength and pH of the reservoir will not vary. This means that you can fill the reservoir with pH adjusted nutrient solution and then forget it until you need to mix more. A recovery system can have large shifts in the pH and nutrient strength levels that require periodic checking and adjusting.
N.F.T. This is the kind of hydroponic system most people think of when they think about hydroponics. N.F.T. systems have a constant flow of nutrient solution so no timer required for the submersible pump. The nutrient solution is pumped into the growing tray (usually a tube) and flows over the roots of the plants, and then drains back into the reservoir. There is usually no growing medium used other than air, which saves the expense of replacing the growing medium after every crop. Normally the plant is supported in a small plastic basket with the roots dangling into the nutrient solution. N.F.T. systems are very susceptible to power outages and pump failures. The roots dry out very rapidly when the flow of nutrient solution is interrupted.
AEROPONIC The aeroponic system is probably the most high-tech type of hydroponic gardening. Like the N.F.T. system above the growing medium is primarily air. The roots hang in the air and are misted with nutrient solution. The mistings are usually done every few minutes. Because the roots are exposed to the air like the N.F.T. system, the roots will dry out rapidly if the misting cycles are interrupted. A timer controls the nutrient pump much like other types of hydroponic systems, except the aeroponic system needs a short cycle timer that runs the pump for a few seconds every couple of minutes. FREE SYSTEM PLANS
HAND-WATERED BUCKET This inexpensive system is one of the Professor’s favorites. It is probably the simplest hydroponic system on the planet. Simple yet effective, we have seen very impressive results achieved with this easy to build system. The series of holes that ring the bucket are about 1 ½” inches above the bottom, this makes a small reservoir of nutrient solution in the bottom that will be wicked up to the plants roots by the capillary action of the growing medium. This system is perfect for large plants, it can easily handle a single tomato or pepper plant or a couple of smaller plants like lettuce or herbs. NOTE: With large plants you may need to supply external support to help hold the plant upright. This system can be automated with the use of a separate reservoir, submersible nutrient pump, a short cycle timer (one that can be set to come on for as short as a minute), an air pump & airstone as well as a little bit of drip irrigation tubing. (See drawing on left)
Materials Required: 5 GALLON BUCKET (or equivalent water tight plastic container). Make sure that the bucket doesn’t have any leaks in the bottom, it is important that the bucket holds water up to the point of the overflow holes. GROWING MEDIUM - The Professor favors straight Perlite or a Perlite / Vermiculite mix for this system, however there is a vast variety of growing mediums that will work well. FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREEN (optional) - A small amount of window screen is handy to put over the overflow holes that you must drill in the bucket, this helps keep the growing medium from falling out. HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular “dirt” fertilizers do not contain essential “micro-nutrients”. pH TEST KIT *- You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution. ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM 1. Drill a series of holes in a CLEAN plastic bucket approximately 1 ½” (4 cm) above the bottom of the bucket. The number and size of the holes is not critical, usually 6 to 10 holes (3/8” or ½” in diameter) is enough. NOTE: Holes smaller than 3/8” seem to plug up easily. The larger the hole the more likely that you will need step # 2 below. Very large holes will dry out the growing medium quickly. 2. Optional: From the inside of the bucket place window screen over holes. (you can hold the screen in place as you add the growing medium, or you can glue the screen in place with a small amount of silicone sealant, wait for silicone to cure before adding growing medium). NOTE: The screen is just to keep the growing medium from falling out. If you don’t mind a little mess, or if your holes are relatively small, or your growing medium stays together well you can skip this step. 3. Add the growing medium to the bucket. (NOTE: you will need to wash and / or pre-soak the growing medium before adding to the system, depending on the type of growing medium that you are using. 4. Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium. NOTE: The Professor recommends starting your seeds separately and then adding the seedling(s) to the system.
CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS 5. Mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. An easy way to mix the nutrient is to use a one gallon milk jug and mix a gallon at a time, however it can be convenient to mix more than a gallon at a time, you can use another 5 gallon bucket (or similar plastic container). If you mix large amounts at a time it is recommended that you aerate the surplus nutrient solution with an aquarium type air pump and airstone to keep the solution from stagnating. Storage container should have a loose fitting lid to keep out debris. 6. Slowly add the pH adjusted nutrient solution to the bucket until you see some excess flow out of the overflow holes. 7. Repeat step #6 periodically as needed. This will vary due to weather conditions and the size and type of plant(s). Knowing when and how much to water requires a little trial and error.
CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS 8. Fill the reservoir with water and mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. 9. Attach the drip line to the submersible pump and put the pump into the reservoir. Plug the pump into the timer. Set the timer and plug it into the outlet. NOTE: You will need a short cycle timer that can be set for short periods of time. A digital timer from a home center usually will work as they can be set to come on for as little as one minute. A good starting point to set the timer is to come on for one minute once or twice a day. 10. Put the drip line so that the nutrient solution runs out at the base of the plant.
The word Hydroponics is derived from the Greek word Hudor for water, and Ponos meaning labor, thus meaning working with water. Hydroponics has been in use for nearly 300 years by a man named John Woodward. It wasn't until the 1930's that Dr. William R. Gericke, an American professor, set up outdoor growing units, producing tomato plants with a height of 25 feet tall. In 1944 the United States government actually began using hydroponics as a way to feed the U.S. troops in the pacific. 0.6 acres provided vegetables enough to feed 400 men a day.
Hydroponics gardening is an easier and less expensive way of growing vegetables in smaller area of space. Hydroponics is portable; easy to use, and is virtually maintenance free if set up properly. Most plants grown with hydroponics use less water and produce at a faster rate, with larger results, in a pest free environment. There is no cut worms, grubs, or soil borne diseases to deal with. Nor is there the tilling, digging, raking, hoeing, weeding, or messy manure to work with. Everything is done using portable easy to assemble hydroponics units like the one displayed below.
To get started in building your own hydroponics garden, I have provided a list of materials needed to build a unit like the one shown below. I call this my 3-tier unit and find that it has been the most successful. However, you may reduce the tiers down to fit into a smaller area if needed. The supplies need is listed below:
You want to start first by building the frame sides, then attaching the front boards. Cut three 4" diameter half circles along the top board of each support side to accommodate the PVC piping as shown in the picture above. Make certain each half circle is cut at the same interval on both support boards. With a 2 ¼" wood hole cutter, drill six holes 6" apart on centers from the middle of each 4' x 4" PVC pipes. At the right hand side of the upper most 4' x 4" thin-wall PVC pipe, drill a ¾" hole for the water hose attachment, as shown in the picture above. On the same PVC pipe at the opposite end but at a quarter turn from the last hole, drill a 1" hole for the drain piping to fit into, as shown in the picture above. The next 4' x 4" thin wall PVC pipe should have a 1" hole drilled on the top of it where the drainpipe from the top PVC pipe will connect to the middle pipe. On the same middle 4' x 4" thin wall pipe, at the opposite side from where the upper drain pipe connects to it, and at a quarter turn from the top, drill another 1" hole to attach the drain piping from this 4" PVC pipe to connect to the lower, one as shown in the picture above. The lower 4' x 4" thin-wall PVC pipe should have a 1" hole cut at the top for the drainpipe from the middle PVC pipe to connect to it. Another 1" hole will need to be drilled in the end cap that will go on the lower 4' x 4" thin-wall PVC pipe, at the opposite end of where the drain pipe connection at the top is made. This hole will drain the nutrients back down into the 32-Gallon container, as shown in the picture above. Glue end caps upon the 4' x 4" thin-wall PVC tubes using liquid nails. Assemble the ¾" drain piping and elbows together as well as the ½ elbow to attach the 8' long hose. Connect the water hose to the pump and place the pump inside of the 32-gallon container. Fill 32-gallon container with water and a premix hydroponics nutrient solution. There are many premix hydroponics nutrient solutions on the market. The only preparation required is to measure and stir the nutrients into the water according to instructions. Poke several holes at the bottom of each Styrofoam cup, and then fill each with Perlite to prepare for seeds to be planted. Plant the seeds, start the pump and you are well on your way to having a hydroponics garden.
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